DA Pam dated 1 July (supersedes DA Pam , dated 28 June in case you were wondering) is titled “The M16A1. : The M16A1 Rifle Operation And Preventative Maintenance DA Pam Original field manual illustrated by Will Eisner in comic form. SUMMARY of CHANGE. DA PAM –3. Soldiers’ Guide for Field Maintenance Operations. This major revision, dated 18 September
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Search the history of over billion web pages on the Internet. Remember not to lose, damage or separate them. IS Toke handguards off by first pulling down on the slip ring.
Use the firing pin to release the receiver pivot pin. Separate the upper and lower receivers. II Push the buffer assembly in about Va inch, press in on the buffer retainer, then release the guide.
Take out the buffer assembly and spring. Install by first putting handguards in place, then push up on slip ring. Engage the receiver O pivot pin. Insert the spring and buffer assembly. Join the upper and O lower receivers. If your M16A1 rifle refuses to pop off — or quits popping sudden-like — you’ve got a stoppage that needs im- mediate action.
Instinctively do- ing the right thing to clear your weapon and get it firing again, soonest! Here’s a slow motion of the proce- dure you’d best make second nature: Careful, though, never “ride” the charger— let it go on its own. Now, again hit the for- ward assist to pak sure the bolt’s closed Tap upward on the magazine to make sure it’s seated right. Now pull the charging handle all the way back ond see if paam whole cor- tridge or case comes out.
If a cartridge or case Is ejected, release the charg- ing handle to feed a new round.
DA PAM 750-30 – The Army’s “Slightly Suggestive” Vietnam Era M16A1 Pamphlet
If she won’t fire, now ;am for the cause Table in yourTM covers causes and cures. If no cartridge or cose ejects, first look for a round in the chamber. If none’s there, once more release the charging handle to feed a round.
Next hit the forward assist and again pull the trigger. If she still won’t fire, do what your TM 7503-0 on trouble-shooting. However, if you do find a cartridge or case in the chamber, be sure you remove it before you try to reload and recycle your weapon. Now, remember, gtt these steps down pat. 750-0 your ammo and magazine 75030 clean and dry as possible.
The only part of the mflgazine that gets any lube is the spring — and it gets only a very light touch of ISA. Oil it up and you’re headed for trouble. Never load dented or dirty ammo. Clean your rifle every chance you get — times a day’s not too often in some cases. Cleanliness is a must — and it may save your life! Be sure to clean carbon and dirt from those barrel locking lugs.
Pipe cleaners help here and inside the carrier key.
DA Pam : Free Download, Borrow, and Streaming : Internet Archive
Never be bashful about asking for cleaning materials when you need ’em. Get ’em and use’ em! If you jam the receivers closed while the selector’s in the AUTO position, you’ll force the automatic sear down and damage the automatic sear, and the sear pin, and will likely rough up the bottom of the bolt carrier.
Here’s something you want to be real careful about. Don’t — like Never! Always — like Always! You can see how it works by d the receiver and turning the selector to AUTO and watching the movement of the tang of the automatic sear. Point the arrow to SAFE. Then the receivers will close without any interference. Which is A-OK as far as it goes.
The tighter the mag’s held in the re- ceiver, the more pressure it takes to release it. The farther the shaft of the catch sticks through the catch button, the 70-30 the magazine’s held in the receiver.
So, take a cue from experience. Adjust the catch button so’s it’s just about flush with the inner groove or just sticks out a tiny bit. No sweat adjusting the catch’ the way you want it, either. Just press the button on the right side of the rifle with the nose of a cartridge far enough so’s you can turn the catch on the left side of the weapon. You turn the han- dle clockwise to tighten it and counter- clockwise to loosen it.
Best of all, you don’t have to take the weapon apart to do 750-03. O’course, some guys’ve been complaining about old-type, big-size clean- ing swabs jamming in the bore — and breaking the cleaning rod. First, make sure your rifle’s cleaned and lubed before you bag it. This cover’s an aid to PM, but it’ll never replace the cleaning and lubing you’ll always have to do regularly. In fact, with a rubber band closing — not to mention rips and tears — the bag’s not guaranteed watertight, so-oo-o.
Second, if you’re gonna keep it bagged more than 24 hours, be sure you eye- ball the weapon ad day for signs of corrosion from any moisture or condensa- tion that might form in the bag. Then slide the rifle Put it on and off gently and you can tlie cover seveTal times. Quick-rip the bag off with one steady yank. The bag’ll come apart at the tear- line.
If absolutely necessary, you can fire right through the bag. You can operate the selector lever and trigger easy with the bog on. Ejected cases will be trapped in the bag and could cause a malfunction after 7503-0 first round. So get it off as quick as you can. Don’t sweat it, though. The 75030 E-3’s probably won’t dx the rounds till supplies of the E-l’s and E-2’s are gone.
If you do, here’s what to look for: Your Ml6Ars own tools — clean- ing rods and brushes alike — all have real fine threads But, if you’re ever in a spot where you have to use any other rod, like the Mil Ad or any other bore brush like dx one that car- ries FSN750-330 any other chamber brushes, like the Ml FSN or the M14 FSNwatch this: Their threads are coarser 32 to the inch.
DA PAM – The Army’s “Slightly Suggestive” Vietnam Era M16A1 Pamphlet | IBOV
They won’t match up with your authorized equipment. Don’t try to screw ’em together. No sweat, though, on swabs. If you have the cal type FSN ?
DA Pam 750-30
So it deserves reasonable treatment — especially in cleaning and lubing its lower receiver area. First thing you know, the pins fall out and get lost — or the parts they hold won’t line up right and your firing’s ‘way oflf.
Truth is, you are not authorized to remove the lower receiver’s parts at all. You can do a good cleaning job, if you do it this-a-way — and do it every day. Wrap a piece oT clean ciotn or cleaning patch around the brush handle and poke it into the hard-to-get-at places. Do the best job you can to get rid of carbon and gook that could keep the parts from work- ing right.
Of course, this all centers on remov- ing or not removing the components of the lower receiver to do the servicing job.
The lower receiver’s made of alu- minum to keep the weapon light- weight. But daa pins that hold the auto- 1. Soak your artist brush FSN or other similar type brush real good with bore deaner. Then scrub oil the ports like there’s no tomorrow to get off all the dirt and carbon you cor 4.
When you’re oil through — and the lower receiver’s dry — put a generous coat of LSA FSN 9 on all of the insides of the tower receiver and on all of the parts. A cleaning job like this will get rid of all the 7500-30 and dirt that might keep your weapon from shooting right.
Any stuflf that’s left after you do your level best won’t make no never-mind. Of course, if the lower receiver ever gets so fouled up that the rifle won’t fire right, then you let support have a whack at it. Now you can understand why TM with Ch 1, does not authorize disassembly of the lower receiver group for cleaning by riflemen and armorers. Parts replace- ment and extra- tough cleaning jobs are for direct or general support only.
But, please don’t miss out on that lubing job. All components of the lower receiver — as well as the bolt carrier group — must wear a coat of LSA at all times.
No ”buts” about it. Your rifle can’t perform without it. There’s always the danger that some guy might be tempted to give his weap- on a shower or tub bath before inspec- tion to get rid of dirt and lube. Anybody who bathes his rifle is do- ing it dirt two ways: First, he’s robbing it of the lube protection it needs.